Wanderbrush

The sun was trying hard to break over the horizon when our alarms went off at a bright and early 5 AM. This annoying but necessary noise signaled an exciting prospect, today was the day we embarked on the Yankee Freedom Ferry to go camping at Dry Tortugas National Park. 

This camping opportunity was what sparked this whole Florida trip. Camping spots at the Dry Tortugas book up over a year in advance and prove to be very difficult to come by. Then one day back in January, during the cold and flurry of snow outside, I was locked into an Excel spreadsheet at work and got a text from our friend K, “A spot at Dry Tortugas opened up for camping on Saturday, June 21st. Do y’all want to go??” and the rest is history. 

Over the last six months, we prepped for the trip by optimizing our camping supplies, researching which camp spot was the most optimal, and most importantly, deciding what to eat while on the island. Camping on the island is an involved yet smooth process. Yankee Freedom outlines clearly what each camper is allowed to bring and what all to pack. 

You are allowed to bring a storage tote for your camping supplies, a large cooler, and your duffel bag. Since we were only staying one night, packing was a fairly easy task. There is a risk of the ferry not being able to come one day due to weather or technical issues, so we made sure to account for that when packing our food and water supplies. 

Come sunrise, we rolled our bins and coolers down to the Yankee Freedom dock. By 6 AM, our gear was in the hands of the dock crew, already buzzing with efficiency as they began loading. They let us know to return by 7 AM for check‑in and boarding—perfect timing.

A few steps away stood the Cuban Coffee Queen, opening at 6:30. We wandered over, brimming with excitement for the day ahead. While the aroma of freshly brewed café con leche drifted around us, we ordered our coffee as the sun continued to slowly rise, savoring that first caffeine kick and a quick breakfast to fuel our adventure.

By 7 AM, we returned to the ferry terminal and checked in, our IDs exchanged for boarding cards. The lobby was still relatively calm, but by 8 AM, a steady tide of travelers filled the hall, eager for boarding. We settled into the flow, anticipation bubbling as we awaited boarding to our soon to be somewhat private oasis for the night.

The boarding process soon started and we loaded onto the ferry and claimed our seats for the 2 hour voyage on the upper cabin of the ferry (pro-tip: these were the optimal seats to choose for the ferry ride). We filled out our waivers for our snorkeling gear and listened to the crew’s instructions and history tidbits of the park and the surrounding keys. They served light breakfast and coffee on the ferry ride, so do not despair if you do not get a chance to grab Cuban Coffee Queen beforehand. 

The ferry ride was very smooth as we slowly made our way to Dry Tortugas and the sun was out in full force. The rays were dancing on the turquoise waves, and I couldn’t help but marvel at how mesmerizing the ocean was. Before we knew it, the site of the fort was cresting on the horizon. 

As the other passengers filed off the ferry and onto the island for their day of adventure, we hung back with the other campers for a quick safety briefing from the captain. Luckily, the rangers were located just a short walk away from our campsite and the ferry ensured we were well equipped for a night on the island. 

While Mason and M gathered our supplies from the dock, K and I went to scope out the campsites. There are 10 campsites on the island, and each campsuite is big enough for three 2-person tents. There was a family set up at two of the campsites on the front part of the trees, and as we walked around we spotted a campsite towards the back that was a perfect little oasis among the campsites. And most importantly, it was shaded. 

We set up our camp at campsite #6 to settle into our home for the night. I might be biased, but I believe we hit the jackpot of the available campsites. This site provided ample space for both of our tents, had ample shade, and also had a clear view of the sky for star watching during the night.

After our campsite was ready to go, we made a beeline for the South Beach to start my most anticipated part of the trip – snorkeling. We picked up our mask and fins from the ferry crew, set up our area on the beach, and got in the water. There are two beaches on Dry Tortugas to snorkel at, South Beach and North Beach. South Beach was recommended for more introductory and beginner snorkeling. Having been out of practice, I opted for the South Beach. The water was the perfect temperature to help cool us down without being too chilly. My parents visited Dry Tortugas a couple of years ago in July and likened the water to bath water, so this cool and refreshing temperature was a pleasant surprise.

I snorkeled along the moat wall and used my Fujifilm disposable underwater camera to *attempt* to snap some pictures of the fish along the way. As you got further out, the fish and ocean life became more and more abundant and vibrant. We ended up buying a Dry Tortugas sea creatures identification card from the ferry which ended up being a tremendous help in identifying what all creatures we were swimming with after the fact.

We spent most of the day snorkeling by the moat, hanging by the beach, and soaking up our first hours on the island. Before we knew it, it was time for the ferry to head out for the day and take the majority of the visitors off the island. After the ferry departed, the seaplanes and private boats slowly followed, and the feeling of being one of few on this island out at sea started to really sink in.

All of us had watching the sunset from the top of Fort Jefferson on our bucket list for the trip, so we opted for an early dinner before we went and secured our spots for sunset viewing. M and K very graciously offered to make and pack dinner for the night, and they prepared quite a feast. We had BBQ sliders, backpackers mac and cheese, pickles, potato chips, and finished off with banana pudding. Just because your camping on an island does not mean you cannot have a tasty meal.

With our stomach’s and our energy expended, we decided to make our way to the top of Fort Jefferson to watch the sunset. We took our blankets and cameras and trekked across the fort and up the stairs. Once we got to the top, it was truly a breathtaking site.

We settled onto one of the points of the hexagonal fort and started scoping out the perimeter while we had time before the sun started to disappear. Walking atop of the fort gave you sweeping views of the island and the crystal blue waters of the ocean. It was a surreal experience being surrounded by such beauty.

Before we knew it, the sun started to set and created an ocean of golden hues as it danced down the fort walls. We watched across the water as a boat perfectly set itself into frame, painting a picturesque scene right before our eyes.

It was breathtaking to watch as the sun slowly dipped below the horizon. Ponce De Leon first landed on Dry Tortugas on June 21st, 1513. Five hundred and twelve years later, here we are, visiting the island and soaking in all of its beauty.

After this amazing experience, we wandered back to our tents to slowly settle in for the night. We savored the crystal clear night sky painted with stars and soaked every bit out of our single night there before departing the next day.