Wanderbrush

For our second day in the city, we were set on exploring the way we love most—on foot. With no itinerary and zero expectations, the day felt wide open, the kind that invites spontaneity and lets you really absorb the rhythm of a place.

We kicked things off with a visit to one of Montreal’s iconic bagel institutions. The moment you start researching the city, you’re immediately pulled into the great debate between its two legendary, rival bagel shops. Naturally, we had to see what all the fuss was about.

We wandered over to St‑Viateur Bagel in the heart of Mile End, ready to dive into Montreal’s legendary bagel scene. St‑Viateur and Fairmount are the city’s two heavyweights, endlessly debated by locals and visitors alike. Montreal bagels themselves are a whole different experience—wood‑fired, slightly sweet, smaller and denser than the classic New York style.

After a bit of research (and plenty of opinions from the internet), St‑Viateur came out on top for our first stop. So we grabbed a couple of warm bagels straight from the oven and set off to conduct our very official taste test.

We carried our bagels a few steps down the street to Café Olympico, the perfect spot to pair them with a good cup of coffee. To give our taste test some range, we picked up a Rosemary & Sea Salt, a Maple Apple, and a classic Plain bagel. A pair of lattes rounded out our breakfast lineup, and we settled into the lively café atmosphere, happily eating and sipping as the morning buzzed around us.

I have to admit, Montreal bagels truly live up to the hype. I’d return to the city for these little masterpieces alone. After savoring the very last bite (a moment of genuine sadness), we bundled back up and stepped into the cold to continue our self‑guided wander through the city.

From Café Olympico, we made our way through the Mile End neighborhood toward Café Alphabet. This spot has earned quite the reputation for its banana freddo matcha latte, so of course it became an essential stop on our morning stroll. The service was quick and welcoming, and the drink itself was every bit as dreamy as promised. With matcha in hand, we continued down the sunny, storybook‑like streets, perfectly content with our slow, meandering start to the day.

Mason and I wandered up and down the quiet neighborhood streets of Mile End, ducking into a few shops and bookstores along the way and admiring the charming architecture around every corner. The brilliant yellow fall leaves followed us throughout our entire trip, a final burst of autumn that seemed to blanket the whole city in gold.

Eventually, we drifted off the main Mile End stretch and began making our way toward Mount Royal Parc. A series of small neighborhood parks dotted our route, each one offering a peaceful pause from the steady hum of the city as we continued our leisurely walk.

After marveling at the scenery around every corner, Parc Mont‑Royal finally came into view. The park was alive with families, runners, and leisurely walkers, all soaking up the day. We opted for a slow, meandering climb up the quieter backside of the park, letting the path guide us as we made our way toward the summit.

The park’s wide walking trails and winding paths made it easy to wander at a relaxed pace, taking in both the natural scenery and the glimpses of the city beyond the trees. We spent about an hour meandering through the park, snapping photos, and soaking up the calm atmosphere. After pausing at a few overlooks, we eventually made our way to Mount Royal Chalet—a beautiful building with sweeping windows, ornate details, and a postcard‑worthy view.

You can drive up to the chalet as well, and inside you’ll find a small café, a gift shop, and plenty of tables where visitors can rest and admire the city from the lookout platform just outside. We picked up a couple of souvenirs and stood at the overlook for a while, taking in the skyline as we debated our next big decision of the day: where to go for lunch.

With the bagel and coffee long gone, we made our way out of the park and took an Uber back to Old Montreal area to grab some lunch. Mason and I were craving something hearty to refuel after a morning of walking, so we landed on an Italian restaurant nestled on a corner in Old Montreal, Marcella.

Marcella was a cozy, elegant escape from the chilly weather outside. Mason and I settled in with a couple of drinks and enjoyed some prime people‑watching from our window‑side table. We managed to snag a spot during the midday lull, but the place filled up fast. I’d definitely recommend making a reservation if you plan to visit this gem during your stroll of Old Montreal.

When our food arrived, I was met with the most incredible carbonara I’ve ever tasted. Every drink, appetizer, and dish we ordered hit exactly the right note, the kind of meal that feels like a hug on an overcast day. Marcella was the perfect refuge for a gray afternoon, and I’ll be dreaming about that pasta until the next time I’m back in the city.

Once we were happily stuffed from lunch, we took full advantage of the chance to wander the cobblestone streets of Old Montreal again. We drifted in and out of shops and art galleries, chatting with locals and soaking up every bit of the city’s cozy charm. It was the perfect slow afternoon, the kind that makes you fall even more in love with a place.

After wearing out both our shoes and our wallet, we headed back to our hotel in Old Montreal to rest our feet before the evening. One thing we’d casually tossed around earlier in the trip was the idea of catching a hockey game. Montreal is home to the Canadiens, and countless friends and locals had insisted that experiencing a true Canadian hockey game is something special.

The Canadiens happened to be playing that Saturday, but the resale prices were a bit higher than we were hoping for. Still, I kept an eye on tickets throughout the day, just in case. As we settled into our room, warming up and regrouping, the nosebleed seats suddenly dropped to $90 each. It felt like the universe was giving us a very clear nudge; Mason and I were meant to experience Canada’s favorite pastime firsthand.

The game started at 7pm, and thankfully our dinner reservations were able to be pushed to 10pm. We had plenty of time to rest and recharge at the hotel before heading over to the arena. The area was about a 20 minute walk from our hotel, and we soon joined a crowd of excited fans all heading to watch the match up with the Utah Mammoths. There was a buzzing energy as we were quickly enveloped in the buzzing excitement.

We settled into our seats and immediately took in the incredible view of the rink below. The energy was electric from the moment the players hit the ice—fans cheering, music thumping, and the kind of collective excitement that makes you feel like part of something bigger. We even made friends with the people sitting next to us and grabbed some poutine to fully embrace the experience. As the arena filled, the atmosphere only grew more intense, especially when the Canadiens snagged an early lead.

Between the poutine, hot chocolate, and popcorn, we stayed warm and happy throughout the game, but by the final period we were craving something a bit more substantial. With the Canadiens clearly cruising toward a win, the crowd began to thin, and we joined the steady stream of fans heading out. Our destination: our second restaurant of the day back in Old Montreal—Modavie.

Modavie was the ultimate cozy, romantic french restaurant to finish off our night. It offers french cuisine and live jazzy music. The restaurant had a lively energy that offered the perfect ending meal to our trip. We enjoyed cocktails, escargot, and some delicious entrees as we savored our night.

Mason and I left Modavie thoroughly stuffed and completely content, wandering slowly back toward our hotel. Our time in Montreal was winding down after two full days of exploring, but the city had already carved out a special place in our hearts. Even as we packed in our final moments, we were already looking forward to the day we get to return.